Almost all radio listening can be improved with the use of an outside antenna. A radio antenna grabs radio wave energy out of the air, then relays it to the radio receiver which amplifies the signal to an audible level.

AM radio reception usually relies upon an antenna built into the “innards” of the radio. Although some external antennas are available for AM radios, an external antenna will not usually help to pull in weaker signals. On the other hand, portable FM and shortwave receivers normally come equipped with a telescoping antenna. Many of these radios also have a “jack” (or socket) to attach an external antenna. Attaching an external antenna will greatly enhance the signal gathering capabilities of these radios. Ideally, an antenna is constructed so that it can be tuned to the particular frequency it is receiving (or transmitting on). However, for general listening, a simple “long-wire” antenna can be made easily, quickly, and cheaply for just about any FM or shortwave receiver. The antenna described here will pull in a lot of distant stations that were both too faint and scratchy to listen to, or even completely inaudible.

For general listening on FM and shortwave, the length of the antenna itself is not critical. It may be made as long or as short as space will permit. It may be suspended from an outside windowsill to a tree or building by attaching it between two insulators, or merely laid around the baseboard of the room. I have used a length of flat TV lead-in wire as a makeshift shortwave antenna. I just attached it to the terminals on my old Hall crafter receiver and laid it around the room along the walls. It worked pretty well. I have also seen an effective antenna made by suspending a light-gauge insulated wire with thumbtacks along the walls of a room near the ceiling.

These types of “quickie” antennas are especially handy if you live in an apartment, where neighbors might complain, or in other situations where an outside antenna is undesirable. In a pinch, an unusual makeshift antenna can even be made by making up a length of insulated wire with an antenna plug on one end and about three or four inches of bare wire on the other. Insert the plug into the antenna jack on your radio and wrap the bare wire around one of the strands of barbed wire fencing on your place. You will instantly have an antenna considerably longer than any you can construct—a real “long-wire” antenna.

As you can see, the antenna arrangement can be made very cheaply and easily. The illustration depicts the construction of a more permanent long-wire antenna suspended between two insulators. Commercial glass insulators are readily available and inexpensive, or you can make effective substitutes by using a couple of pieces of PVC pipe from the scrap pile. The important thing is to separate the antenna wire itself from the support line.

Tags: AM, Antena, FM, Pipe, Radio, Receiver, TV, Wire
Filed under: Communication, Education, Technology

The voice from the radio was clear, yet was speaking in an unknown language. Tuning in another frequency brought the staccato ditz and dashes of a Morse code transmission. A little more tuning brought in an understandable yet noticeably foreign English broadcast. If you can recall the first shortwave radio broadcast you ever heard, you may remember it as a crackling voice or melody, with the signal fading or growing in strength. The fact that these signals were coming from far around the world was amazing, to say the least.

One does not have to be a ham, or amateur radio operator, to enjoy tuning the airwaves. An amateur radio license is required only for transmitting on the air. As a listener, you are free to tune in to your heart’s content. Long distance monitoring or “DXing” is not only an interesting pastime, it can be an efficient method of acquiring information not available elsewhere.

Unlike normal AM or FM radio broadcasts, shortwave radio depends upon the atmospheric layers surrounding the earth to “go the distance.” These radio waves radiate from their transmission point, then actually “skip” off of the ionosphere, then back to earth to some point far distant from where they originate. The radio signal may actually skip several times before it loses its strength. This characteristic is what enables you to glimpse life halfway around the world, via your radio.

A good, dependable radio receiver is a definite asset for monitoring these distant broadcasts. For the homesteader, or other remote location, or the casual listener, shortwave radio listening can be a very enjoyable and informative pastime. During normal times, dozens of entertaining broadcasts may be picked up on just about any evening. In emergencies or during events of international significance, these radios can help the listener monitor important events as they develop, often right where they are occurring in the world.

Tags: AM, FM, Radio
Filed under: Communication, Education, Radio, Technology

Learning the Morse Code was once a major barrier to getting started in amateur radio. Understanding Morse Code remains a requirement by International agreement for border hopping radio communicators. But today, you can enter domestic ham radio through a code-less Technician license class that only requires you to pass two written tests with a total of 55 multiple-choice questions. For those for whom making sense out of the dit-dahs of Morse Code poses no great problem, a Novice amateur radio license gets you on the air after a five-word-per-minute code comprehension test and a 30-question written exam about basic electronic theory and FCC rules and regulations.

More advanced steps up the ladder of amateur radio proficiency include pushing that code speed on to 13 words per minute, or maybe 20, and passing tests about more complicated theory, operating and regulation topics. The rewards for the extra effort involved in obtaining the higher General, Advanced, or Extra Class license are access to larger portions of the radio spectrum in which to communicate to other states and around the world.

Both United States and Russian manned space flights have at times included crew members whose hobby is amateur radio. Owen Garriott was the first. In 1983, he carried a 4- watt handheld amateur radio transceiver with him and an innovative antenna that fit against a window on the spacecraft Columbia. Other astronauts and Cosmonauts who have followed Garriott’s lead have, when off duty while floating along 200-some miles above the earth, traded greetings with thousands of hams. U.S. ham astronauts have visited via amateur radio hookups direct with school classes, enhancing youthful understanding and appreciation for the sciences and geography.

Tags: Code, Morse Code
Filed under: Education, Information

When disaster strikes, amateur radio frequently plays a pivotal role in restoring communications. Ham radio has a long history of being first to report earthquakes, major fires, storms and floods, and to fill in when local phone systems or power lines go kaput. Practice for such emergencies often takes the form of public service communication activities by hams. That includes passing along greetings from special events and fairs, linking first aid stations for marathons and races, going to Scouting jamborees, and annual Field Day exercises. Each summer, Field Day sends dedicated hams packing off to remote locations where they set up temporary stations and antennas and operate continuously for 24 hours, competing among themselves to see how many other U.S. and international amateur radio stations with which the participants can trade call signs.

Being prepared for emergency service is a responsibility most hams feel goes with the privilege of having been granted a license to use a part of the increasingly crowded radio spectrum. U.S. law sets forth the basis and purpose of the Amateur Radio Service as recognizing and enhancing a voluntary noncommercial communication service, particularly with respect to providing emergency communications. The Act says that amateur radio “contributes to the advancement of the radio art,” and “expands the reservoir of trained operators, technicians and electronic experts,” and “recognizes the amateur’s unique ability to enhance international good will.

Tags: Radio, Tool
Filed under: Education, News and Events

Speaking of antennas, you should note that in almost every case, shortwave reception will be substantially improved if you can attach an external antenna to your set. The familiar telescoping antennas which are standard equipment on most portable radios will do a very good job, but a simple external antenna can do a lot to improve your reception.

The antenna doesn’t need to be anything fancy. As long as you have an external antenna jack on your radio, any long length of light wire will serve as your shortwave signal grabber. Merely looping the wire along the baseboard in a room will work. So will running the wire out a window and out to a tree, bush, or post. An outside antenna will usually work a little better in improving reception, due to the fact that you are removing it from the network of electrical devices, wiring, plumbing, and metal structural members which can contribute to signal interference.

A simple way to convince you of the value of an external antenna is to tune in a fairly good shortwave station with the external antenna attached. Then unplug the external antenna, and you will probably hear the radio signal nearly or completely disappear. There is one thing to remember about using an outside antenna, though. If it is suspended much above the ground, then be sure to have a lightning arrestor hooked into the antenna between the antenna and the radio. This simple device will help to prevent electrical disasters. Regardless of the radio you decide to purchase, you will find a whole new world of music, news, and information waiting right at your fingertips. Those long winter evenings will become a lot more interesting as you sit with a hot cup, tuning the airwaves.

Tags: Antena
Filed under: Communication, Education, Technology

In this age of deregulation and government redirection, getting into amateur radio has never been easier. Anyone can do it. The hobby has no limits as to age, gender, physical ability, social status or the size of your discretionary income. It’s off grid compatible, too. Modern ham a dio’s tightly packaged transmitters and receivers—transceivers is the term—will coast along for hours of communicating on a small fraction of the energy in any healthy deep-cycle 12-volt battery. The newest ham radio sets also are small enough to ride along in the family pickup without cramping the space of your significant other or that dog in your life. Either of them might require some retraining, however, to get quiet when you’re chatting with someone in another state or some other country.

Learning the technicalities, the legalities, and the etiquette of the airwaves needed to obtain a U.S. amateur radio operator and station license and then be welcomed back by those you encounter on the air, is generally convenient wherever you choose to live. Printed and computer-compatible self-help programs are available. Local study courses are in place in many adult education programs, in some public schools and at most local amateur radio clubs. Volunteers in your area Administer license examinations for the government.

Tags: Radio, Receiver
Filed under: Communication, Technology

There are identifiable shortwave broadcast stations in dozens and dozens of countries around the world. Some of the big “powerhouse” stations include broadcasters such as the Voice of America, the BBC World Service, Radio Canada International, Radio Australia, Radio Netherlands, Swiss Radio International, Deutsche Welle, Radio Moscow International, and Radio Japan. Radio South Africa, The Voice of Free China, and many others. One thing you will learn about foreign broadcasts is that not everyone is exactly sympathetic to the United States.

Many religious broadcast networks use the shortwave frequencies. They broadcast their particular messages along with music, commentary, etc., all over the world, and seem to have a very large following. One of the largest and best of these broadcasters is HCJB in Quito, Ecuador. Others include WRNO, WCCR, WYFR Family Radio, and WHRI. Other broadcasters direct their programming to “patriotic” groups and individuals. There are programs describing how to deal with the predicted economic collapse, how to buy gold and silver, acquiring various items for a survivalist’s stores, and other subjects. Their news coverage and commentary convey a noticeably “conservative” stance. On the other hand, at least one broadcast station works to counter these with their own “liberal” broadcasts. Even the shortwave frequencies are not without some controversy and name-calling.

Scheduled broadcasts in English are made from almost every international station. Broadcast schedules can be obtained from most of the international stations, particularly the larger ones. Most of these broadcasters include their mailing addresses in their programming. Some stations even offer on-air language instruction as a part of their programming As I mentioned, it is possible to listen to events of international importance as they develop, from where they develop. For example, back when Operation Desert Storm began, we had two television sets (tuned to two different networks) and our shortwave radio turned on. The shortwave was tuned to the British Broadcasting Company (BBC). After a while, we pretty well abandoned the network TV coverage in favor of the more complete shortwave coverage.

Tags: Radio
Filed under: Communication, Radio

If sophisticated metal-working equipment is available, then building a steel forge makes sense. You could build it using a drill and a hacksaw, but you’d go through plenty of elbow grease in the process. An arc or gas welder/cutting rig, a portable grinder, and a metal shear or chop saw will make the job much easier.

The skills and materials available on your homestead will determine the shape of your forge; use the drawing of my steel forge in Figure 1 as a guide. A small wash tub, a round steel drip pan (the type you drain the oil from your truck into), or a discarded truck rim are all potential forges. Take a look at your scrap pile and you’re almost certain to find something suitable. Used drums or tanks might seem like an ideal choice, but they require careful handling—especially before cutting or welding them. They can contain residual amounts of flammable chemicals—even after thorough cleaning. NEVER use an acetylen.

Air inlet (tuyere)/grate combination. Grease or wrap the pipe prior to pouring concrete— it will later need replacing. (See also: grate detail) The “bed” of the forge is sloped. If available, use fireclay in the concrete. Mix — about clay in place of ½ part sand. Drill or slot this section of the pipe (see grate detail). You could also provide a separate grate.

Removable cap or plug allows easy clean-out. Existing grade — must be fire proof. Local frost line (derive from UBC, county agricultural agent, etc.) torch or abrasive blade to cut into a salvaged drum or tank. (Pro welders use special neutralizers or fill old tanks with water before starting.) The old timers scoffing at this warning just haven’t had their luck run out…yet. You might not live that long. ALWAYS use caution with salvaged materials.

As with the masonry forge, a chimney is required for indoor use; but unless you are very confident in your ability to run a Class A chimney through the roof of your shop, build your forge outside. You can add a sheet metal cover and walls later on; having a flame-proof shed that’s dedicated to metal working is well worth the investment. Besides, it’s a lot cheaper than replacing a barn that burned down.

Even outdoors, though, providing a hood is a bright idea. It will help contain sparks and keep the smoke out of your eyes. On a portable forge, making the hood as a separate attachment will simplify transportation.

Tags: Drill, Forge, Pipe, Solid, Steel
Filed under: Education, Information, Material, Nature

Ancient blacksmiths devised the first forges which were just clay-lined pits in the ground. The blast (or air supply) was provided by the lungs of several apprentices, or later with crude bellows (those included at the end of the article were devised in the Dark Ages). This arrangement works: I’ve used a wood fire in this type of forge to heat half-inch stock to a bright red heat. Of course, you’ll want to build your forge higher than ground level. Building a forge from masonry is a time-consuming and low-tech option, but if you’re using salvaged bricks or field rocks, it’s also an economical choice. It’s going to require a lot of room, but it’ll be around almost forever, so take the time to do it right. A masonry forge needs a foundation no less than 24″ square, preferably concrete and extending below the frost line. If you’re using a mixer, consider building your forge completely out of concrete. Figure 2 illustrates a typical example; use your judgment when placing forms and re-bar. If you’d rather use bricks or rock for the sides (instead of piecing concrete forms together), use the drawing as a guide.

The bed of the forge is built to a comfortable height (usually waist-high for the intended smith). It slopes—like a hopper—so fuel has a tendency to self-feed into the fire. At the bottom of the hopper is the grate (Figure 3), which is an outlet for the air supply, the blast. When the blast is fed through burning fuel, forging heat is produced above the grate. When your forge is built, plan on replacing the grate; it “burns” away quickly. Figure 3 shows a simple air pipe (called a tuyere) and grate combination; it’s just a piece of scrap 2″ or 3″ pipe. Embedded loosely in the forge, it can be easily replaced. A more sophisticated system uses a separate grate and tuyere; the added difficulty of building it pays off with a longer work life and easier grate replacement.

You will require a chimney if you’ve decided to build this forge indoors, but masonry is a poor choice in earthquake country. It’s also an expensive option. Sheet metal duct work is just fine. I’m not going to recommend that you install a chimney without a permit, but I do recommend at least consulting the Uniform Building Code. Appropriate chapters were written to keep people from accidentally incinerating their buildings. Look into it.

Tags: Rock, Solid
Filed under: Education, Information, Material, Nature

The requirements for the homestead forge are simple, having changed little since Colonial times. Some of the tools you’ll be using are called “new” because they were developed during the Dark Ages; a smith returning from the dawn of the Iron Age would instantly recognize your forge. You’ll be pursuing a craft that was ancient when Alexander ruled the Earth. One thing has changed, however, and you’ll hear the same advice from many other sources: wear safety glasses. When you’re building your forge, or later when you’re using it, you can’t afford to injure your eyes. Get a comfortable pair of glasses or goggles, and use them.

The basic principle behind a forge is simple: you need fuel, a fireproof container to burn it in, and a way of forcing air through the burning fuel. Blowing on the coals in your fireplace or barbecue demonstrates perfectly the process which you will later duplicate on a larger scale. Forges are typically built with masonry or steel outer shells; inner components of either shell may be steel. Building a forge from steel can be done quickly (often using recycled scrap), and its lightweight construction makes a steel forge portable. But an electric welder or acetylene rig is required to build one efficiently.

If you don’t have access to welding equipment, building your forge from masonry is a logical choice. The metal pieces you’ll need are simpler, and welding isn’t needed to make them. Although it isn’t portable, a masonry forge achieves the same temperature produced by one made of steel.

Tags: Forge, Glass, Metal, Steel
Filed under: Business, Education, Information, Material